1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to the fields of mountain and rock climbing and, more particularly, to a self-belay device for controlling the ascent or descent of a climber.
2. Description of the Related Art
Rock climbing involves the challenge of navigating a rock face which is often essentially vertical. Rock climbing and rappelling have recently become more popular, as have other so-called “extreme” sports. Rock climbing offers individuals an opportunity to be outdoors and participate in an activity that is both rewarding and challenging, while at the same time being non-destructive to the natural environment.
At the start of the climb, the climber will determine the path to be taken as the climber ascends the rock face. The climber will generally need to use his or her entire body as that ascent takes place. Beyond the climber's body, a number of pieces of equipment are generally used by the rock climber. This equipment varies from climbing shoes equipped with tough rubber soles, to sewn harnesses, to a special climbing rope and a belay device, i.e., mechanical climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying.
The sport of climbing or mountaineering typically requires a team of two people. To ensure the safety of the climber, the climber ties into a rope (i.e. the rope is tied to a harness worn by the climber), and is belayed by a partner, called a belayer. The term “belaying” in the art of the mountain and rock climbing refers to refers to a variety of techniques used in climbing to exert friction on a climbing rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. While the climber ascends, the belayer takes up or lets out the rope such that the rope is maintained taut between the climber and the belayer, preventing a fall of any great distance by the climber. One type of belay devices, known as “top-roping”, employs an anchor placed at the top of the cliff. Typically, the rope runs through this anchor pulley-fashion and the belayer stands at the foot of the cliff, although in some cases the belayer belay from the top. In either case, the anchor is above the climber at all times, so that the climber wilt fall only a short distance if he “falls off” the climb.
Due to the dangers involved climbing, a need exists for belay devices which are reliable and durable for supporting a climber in an emergency situation. The present invention fulfills these needs as described and claimed below.
Lead climbing is when a climber ascends a route and periodically places protection to the rock by placing one end of a quick draw to the rope and the other end to a predrilled anchor or to equipment of their own. During a lead climb the belayer's function is to give the leader slack by feeding the rope out and to stop them during a fail. Lead climbing falls are generally much greater in length than top roping falls because the length of a lead climbing fall is twice the distance between the leader and their last piece of protection, plus any slack in the rope, plus the elongation of the rope. The length of a top roping fall is just the slack in the rope plus the elongation of the rope; this is because the rope is already set in the final anchors at the end of the route. Here the belayer's function is simply to pull the rope in, removing slack between the leader and the top anchors. Solo lead climbing is the same as lead climbing except the belayer is replaced with a solo belay (or self-belay) device.
There are a number of self-belay devices that are available. One is called the “Silent Partner.” This device attaches to the climbers harness with two locking carabineers and the rope is attached to it with a clove hitch. As the leader ascends a route, light tension in the rope causes the clove hitch to slip and allows the rope to feed through the device automatically. During a fall, the increased rope rate actuates a centrifugal clutch inside the device which causes the clove hitch to tighten and stops the rope from feeding. To prevent the Silent Partner from stopping their progression the climber must wear the entire rope length on their harness; the rope is tied off in sections and untied a section at a time, giving the climber slack as they need it. The Silent Partner makes falling while solo lead climbing safe but the device is very cumbersome and adds weight to the climber's core.
Another known self-belay device is called the “Soloist.” The Soloist has an unconventional set up; the climber attaches the device to their harness with a double fisherman's knot and holds it upright with a chest harness. A directional cam inside the device allows the rope to feed automatically as the climber ascends the route. During a relatively upright fall the cam will pinch on the rope and prevent it from feeding, after a fall the device can leave a climber hanging belly side up in which case they have to get back in an upright position without rocking backwards. If the climber rocks backward the cam can potentially open up and they will free fall. If the climber falls head first the Soloist cannot prevent the rope from feeding and they climber will free fall. White the Soloist retains much of the ease of lead climbing with a human belay, it makes falling very dangerous.
The “Solo-Aid” is another known self-belay device, but is a very restrictive self-belay device. The Solo-Aid ties on to the climber's harness with a double fisherman's knot. A non-directional cam inside the device pinches the rope during all climbing circumstances and prevents the rope from feeding. The climber must manually feed the rope through the device as they ascend a route to compensate for the cam inside the device. During a fall the cam will pinch the rope regardless of the climber's orientation but if tied onto the harness in a sloppy or loose manner, there is a high probability the device will tangle in the climbers other gear or hit them in the face during the fall. The Solo-Aid is not intending for novice climbers; the device makes falling while solo lead climbing relatively safe but essentially forces the climber to ascend a route one handed.
All of the current self-belay devices on the market compromise either safety or ease of climbing. None of the existing self-belay devices even closely resemble lead climbing with a human belay as the climber must wear each device on their harness.
The need, thus, exists for a self-belay device that is safe and closely resembles a lead climbing with a human belayer operating a belay device.